Boulder County's Cheese Maker
Haystack Mountain Goat Dairy
In 1989, Jim Schott left his job as an educator, moved his wife, Arlene, and youngest daughter, Katherine, to a farm in Niwot where he herded sheep, ran a dairy and made cheese. Not only did they like goat cheese, but they loved the animals. As plans were getting off the ground, Arlene died of ovarian cancer. Their oldest daughter, Gretchen, left her job and joined her dad as a business partner.
By 1992, Haystack Mountain Goat Dairy made its first batch of fresh chevre. Gretchen used her sales experience to put Haystack's cheese in stores and restaurants throughout the Front Range. They offered tours of the farm, providing education about the goats and the cheese-making process. The business continued to grow, and in 2004 they modified a building on Colorado Avenue in Longmont for cheese production. However, by the fall of 2008, the Niwot goat farm was in need of new equipment and an expansion to keep up with production. The farm closed, and Haystack turned to local dairies for milk.
Chuck Hellmer, acting president and general manager, says the business continues to grow and will be looking at expansion in the coming years. They are also looking to partner with local goat farms to again offer tours to keep Schott's idea of education going. It will also continue to push the buy local aspect, which is important to Haystack. As for the process of making goat cheese, Hellmer says, "We're at the mercy of the milk. During our high production months of June through August, we're filled to capacity."
Haystack Mountain Goat Dairy makes two main types of cheese: lactic, which is fresh, and rannet, which is aged. It makes three raw milk cheeses and a variety of fresh cheeses - from plain and flavored Chevre logs to soft-ripened bloomy rind cheeses. But what is it about goat cheese that is different? Although the process is the same, Hellmer says goat cheese is more complex, with a citrusy taste, not as much fat, and it's usually more bold and flavorful than cow or sheep milk cheese. Goat cheese is a healthier version because it has less fat and better fats, making it easier for digestion in many people. Haystack's goat cheese is also natural, with no additives or growth hormones used. Haystack is always inventing new recipes, such as its new 2009 tastes: Chili Jack - green chilies mixed into aged goat milk cheese - and Camembert - a combination of lactic and rennet cheeses that forms like a gel. It's also created two new log cheeses: Dill and Garlic log and Green Chili log. Haystack also continues to win awards from the American Cheese Society, this year sweeping two first-place awards for its Haystack Peak and Feta, and two third-place awards for the Dill and Garlic log, and Red Cloud.
While not all cheese comes as an individual plastic-wrapped single, there is something about the taste of cheese that makes people come back for more. But besides the yellow and white flat cheese found in major grocery stores, there is a world of artisan and farmstead cheeses that open your palette to new tastes and experiences.
In the cheese world, artisan means handmade and farmstead means the milk and cheese come from the same farm. But what some people may not realize is there is more to cheese than cow's milk, including goat, sheep and buffalo milk cheeses that provide a creamy, yet unique flavor for discriminating tastes.
Here in Longmont, people can take a world tour at Cheese Importers. One step into their walk-in cheese cooler winds you through tastes of Europe and farmsteads of America. Fresh mozzarellas from Italy pair nicely with fresh fruits, dried figs and dates, while Raclette cheese from Switzerland offers a pungent, soft, creamy variety with an intense flavor. For those who like a hard, aged cheese, a goat Gouda from Colorado gives a crunchy, grainy texture with an intense flavor. And for a firm cheese, try a Manchego from Spain, which is a sheep milk cheese that adds a sharp, dense taste when served over pasta or by itself.
"It's such an artistic expression to work and serve cheese. I describe it as simple, but beautiful," says Clara White, owner of Cheese Importers with her brother, Samm. Clara and Samm are the children of Lyman and Linda White, who started the business in 1976 in the old Cunner's Canery on Third Avenue. With their prior experience working in the natural food industry, they discovered people's appreciation for specialty foods. And while cheese was more than 90 percent processed during those days, the Whites had a vision for hand selecting and delivering natural and imported cheese to shops, cafes and co-ops along the Front Range. They also set out to promote local cheese makers, including Haystack Mountain Goat Dairy in Longmont and MouCo Cheese Company in Fort Collins.
While the wholesale business started slow, it wasn't long before customers found out about its quality products and asked for a retail store. By the late 1980s, Cheese Importers moved to its current location on Pratt Parkway, where it continued to sell to more than 400 of Colorado's Front Range restaurants, grocers, co-ops and buying clubs. The new location also allowed for its retail business to thrive, offering other specialty foods and products such as oils, spices, olives, nuts, housewares, linens and gift baskets.
Today, specialty foods, especially cheese, are not just an ingredient on a recipe card. People like to savor the taste and experience that cheese brings to them. "It's an appreciation of a great food," Clara says. "We all really enjoy pleasure in our lives, and taking the time to enjoy such things allows you to slow down and savor the moment."
The progression of enjoying cheese, wine and specialty foods has migrated for centuries from Europe, where it is a part of everyday life. The desire to enjoy different foods and tastes is people's wish for satisfying experiences in life. A perfect complement, the flavors of cheese and wine combine beautifully. However, it's not something just for a special occasion.
"There is nothing wrong by enjoying it at any time," says Clara, adding that people will soon learn where the cheese comes from, how it's made, the story behind it and what impacts various flavor. "Cheeses will grow on you, but you have to try the right cheese."
But knowing which cheese is right can be a little daunting in a cooler with more than 500 cheeses. Experts at Cheese Importers love to give people tips on finding the perfect cheese for their tastes. And while some of the experimenting will have to be left to the taste test, "you can almost never go wrong with cheese," Clara says. Once people find their tastes and perfect cheese and wine combinations, the entertaining is endless and taste buds can be dazzled and senses delighted.